In The Vineyard In the past months, we devoted our comments to wineries, grape varietals, wine styles and dessert wines. Now, we will explore and explain the part the vineyard plays in the wine making process. We start our commentary with the first six months of the wine year. January through June: Here in the northern hemisphere, warming months bring the vineyard to life; in the south, grapes go through their final ripening stages.

Pruning & Vine Training: Pruning starts in January. The previous year's growth is removed from the vine, reducing the number of potential buds and thereby the quantity of grapes. Skill is needed in the vineyard. Controlling yields and producing more concentrated fruit quality is critical at this point.

There are different pruning systems available to growers: (1) cane pruning - one or two canes with more buds; (2) spur pruning provides more canes but fewer buds. The system used depends upon the climate, grape variety, soil type and method of harvest. In cases of old world wine appellations local laws dictate the procedure.

Plowing: In March and April the soil between the vines is plowed to aerate it. Banked up soil is removed from around the base of the vines.

New Plantings: In April and May, fragile new vines are taken out of the nursery and planted in the vineyard. New world vineyards often plant vines farther apart to allow mechanized pruning and harvesting.

Frost Danger: In frost prone areas, growers are ready to implement measures and tools such as heaters, wind machines and sprinklers. These methods are used to protect the fragile buds.

Spraying: Where necessary, spraying the vines with pesticide begins in May and June to protect against insects and fungal diseases. Cooler and more humid areas require more frequent spraying; warmer climate vineyards are less disease-prone.

Training: Following flowering, the shoots are tied to their training wires. Mechanical pruning and harvesting are made easier if all the shoots are encouraged to grow in the same direction. In the old world, training systems are often dictated by regional tradition.

Growth Stages of the Vine Bud Break : This is the first sign of the annual growth of the vine. This occurs when the buds swell and open, allowing green shoot tips to break through.

First Foliage - Once the buds have opened, foliage develops:  the shoots begin to grow rapidly and leaves start to appear. Tiny embryo bunches of flowers can now be seen on the young shoots.

Flowering : The embryo bunches enlarge and small green flowers bloom. Over the next 10 days, pollination and fertilization take place.

In an earlier issue of the RingSide Roundup, I said "Our goal is to have many culinary things going on that are not found in the average American steakhouse."

Spring and summer bring thoughts of fresh fish, seafood and outdoor adventures. Fresh fish suits the change in palates from hearty winter dishes to the lighter and subtle finny flavors.

Here are some things to keep in mind when choosing seafood... Let's focus on finfish:

Choose from a reliable source. Don't hesitate to use your own senses to evaluate freshness. Look for bright, clear and full eyes; pink and/or bright red gills are best; and, firm elastic flesh is most desirable. Poke the flesh for your own finger test. The scales on the fish should be secure.

Fillets and fish steaks should be firm with a fresh cut moistness. Brown tints around the edges are undesirable. Avoid fish with an ammonia odor. Fishy smells aren't especially good. Fresh fish should feel cold. Keep under refrigeration... preferably at 32° F.